What Different Types of Chemical Peels Do for Your Skin
Chemical peels are an incredibly popular treatment option for improving the appearance of your skin. While they can be used on many parts of the body, most estheticians focus on the benefits for your face. Most skin types benefit from a chemical peel, but consult with an esthetician to find out if the option is right for you!
What Concerns Do Chemical Peels Address?
Chemical peels help promote cell regeneration, and can reduce or improve fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, uneven skin tone and other skin imperfections. Your skin will feel smoother and brighter after the treatment process.
Chemical Peels Utilized In Facials For Best Results
Most often, when you go to your esthetician a light chemical peel is included within a facial treatment. A simple light chemical peel usually only takes about 7-10 minutes and has plenty of benefits for your skin. However, when you include them with treatments such as extractions, vitamin infusions, masks, and others personalized for your skin, the results are amplified.
Looking At The Strength Of Chemical Peels
Many people focus on the percentage of chemical peels, yet the pH of the acid is what matters more when considering the strength of the peel.
The slightest change in the pH of the formulation makes a significant difference in its strength and ability to react with the skin. The average PH of a healthy skin is between 4.5-5.5 pH, depending on gender, age, and skin type, which is on the acidic side. The lower the pH, the more acidic and more aggressive the peel is. Unfortunately, most companies don’t display pH levels on the bottle, increasing the risk of skin damage if you don’t know what you are doing. A 30% glycolic acid with a higher pH is milder than a 20% with a lower pH.
How Chemical Peels Work
Generally, chemical peels are treatments for your skin that include applying an acidic solution to stimulate cell turnover and remove the outermost layer of skin and cells. This “controlled trauma” to the skin stimulates the natural peeling of the skin which will improve the texture and the brightness of your skin.
What Are The Different Strengths Of Chemical Peels?
The best way to categorize the different types of chemical peels is by strength. There are light, medium, and deep strength chemical peels. Deep peels are only administered in a clinical setting by a doctor, and are not recommended for stretch marks. Light or medium peels, depending on your skin concern will be chosen by your esthetician. They also tailor the skin type of chemical peel used to your skin concern and condition.
Light Peels
A light chemical peel is one of the gentlest options with no downtime. The outermost layer of your skin is broken down during a light peel to encourage the skin's own natural exfoliation process. It’s an ideal option for the treatment of fine lines, inflammation, hyperpigmentation, and skin dryness. A light peel might be done every 4 weeks or included in your monthly facials to sustain your results or improve your skin condition.
Medium Peels
In a medium strength peel, skin cells are “peeled off” or removed from both the uppermost and inner layers of the skin. A medium peel can treat both the epidermis and dermis and may have some downtime. This treatment is often chosen to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, acne scars, and irregular skin tones. To see the best results or sustain your desired effects, you would need to get medium peels at proper intervals.
Deep Or Strong Peel
The more intensive peels are used to deliver significant improvement to skin conditions and concerns, such as wrinkles and deep acne scarring. Compared to light and medium options, deep chemical peels have more dramatic results, and usually only need one treatment session. There will be considerable downtime with redness and peeling lasting about 7-10 days.
What To Expect During A Chemical Peel Session
If you’re preparing for your first chemical peel treatment, make sure you talk to your esthetician about your history of skincare and your current routine. They’ll provide you with the guidelines you need to adequately prepare for your appointment. At JE’DERM skin atelier, we may include light chemical peels in our Signature Bespoke Facial treatment to achieve desirable results. If a chemical peel is used in your facial, you may feel a slight tingling sensation while the peel is on your skin, but then the peel is wiped away and neutralized.
We also offer medium strength chemical peels that are not part of our Signature Facial steps. To give the best pathway to the peel this treatment doesn’t include any steps that could limit the penetration of the peel (massage, serums, masks).
This treatment involves cleansing the skin and applying a chemical solution to the skin and allowing it to sit. You may notice some stinging or discomfort as the solution sits on the skin, but we use facial fans to make it as comfortable as possible. Then, depending on the type of chemical peel used, we may repeat the process a few times or we apply a neutralizing agent to the treatment area.
Chemical Peel Aftercare Guidelines
After your chemical peel, your skin may be red and slightly irritated. Definitely avoid any prolonged sun exposure, and use sunscreen daily. Depending on the type of peel, your aftercare guidelines may vary. Your esthetician lets you know exactly what you should do to take care of your skin! Follow their advice for the best results from your appointment.
The Best Chemical Peel For Skin Concerns
Since chemical peels is a general term for a wide variety of products, it can be difficult to know which ones are best for your skin concerns. We’ll go over some of the most common for treating skin, but always consult a skin care professional before treatment.
Glycolic Acid
First, glycolic acid is the most popular of the acids used in formulations because of its smaller molecular size and ability to penetrate. It is part of a family of acids called ‘alpha hydroxy acids,’ and considered a natural acid as its derived from sugar cane and fruit acids. A glycolic acid affects the epidermis by breaking up the bonds (or the glue) between skin cells. By removing this glue, the dead cells are then released and the newer, healthier-looking skin can be revealed. Considered the golden standard of AHAs and it’s widely used for conditions like aging, hyperpigmentation, dryness, and acne.
TCA Peels
TCA peels, or trichloroacetic acid, are a derivative of vinegar and are great for concerns such as hyperpigmentation, acne scarring, sun damage, signs of aging, and melasma. It works by breaking up keratin proteins, stimulating cell regeneration, and promoting elastin and collagen. TCA comes in many different strengths and potencies, and generally takes a little longer to recover from. Your esthetician will know what strength is correct for your skin!
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is the only beta hydroxy acid that is commonly used in products. Perfect for oily and problematic skin, Salicylic acid is best known for its ability to penetrate and cut through excess oil and to reduce oil production moving forward. Because salicylic acid keeps pores clean and unclogged, it prevents future whiteheads and blackheads from developing.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid recently started to make a comeback as a favorite chemical peel for its effectiveness yet gentleness on the skin. Mandelic acid is a member of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family and it is naturally derived from bitter almonds. It’s gentle peeling effect can be attributed to its molecular structure.
Since its molecules are larger than those found in other alpha hydroxy acids, mandelic acid takes longer to penetrate the skin’s surface. This makes it less likely to cause irritation. What is great about mandelic acid peels is that they generally don’t cause a lot of inflammation. As such, they are a safer option for treating darker skin-type individuals, resulting in less risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or discoloration. Mandelic acid has been found to be effective for inflammatory acne, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Talk To Your Esthetician
If you’re interested in getting a chemical peel, contact JE’DERM skin atelier today! Each appointment is personalized for your skin type and concerns. Together, with treatment and education, we’ll help you reach your skincare goals!